Food Plot in the Woods

Got questions about what to grow and when to grow it? This is the place to ask.

Food Plot in the Woods

Postby JeffKMN » Fri Dec 26, 2008 10:03 pm

This is a great site.
I live in east central minnesota and have 40 arces of which 15 is hay fields and pasture (grass,alfalfa,orchard grass and some clovers) 19 acres of mixed woods (oak,popple and birch) and 5acres swamp.
I used to have a lot of deer staying in the area but the building of new homes around my land is crazy. The deer still go through my land but don't stay.
I have cut down some trees to make 1/2 acre food plots in the woods.
Do you think I have to get the stumps out or can I just work the ground around them and seed it down?
What will hold the deer in my area?
Sorry so long and Thanks Jeff
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Postby Bowhunters » Fri Dec 26, 2008 10:39 pm

The tree stumps and roots can stay, if the stumps are too close together or you don't have access to a tractor and disc you can always take a walk behind garden tiller back there and work the ground between and around the stumps.

If you intend to plant a whitetail clover mix you will need to get the soil tested for PH level, the local farming Coop or Agricultural Center may have soil testing kits available and the address to send them and any fee's if any are charged.

Once you get the results back you'll know if you need to add lime to change the PH (clover is kind of picky on PH) so it can affect germination and growth.

What brand and type of plot mix you plant will decide if you need to worry about the PH and what type of fertilizer you need to put down.


If you don't have access to a garden tiller there is at least one variety of deer clover that is a 'No Plow/Till', its an annual so it only lives for one summer but all you have to do is rake the ground really good instead of working it by mechanical means. Since its a clover you do need to do a soil test and lime and fertilize as necessary.
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Postby DocHolladay » Sat Dec 27, 2008 1:34 am

A soil test isnt necessary, but gives the best results. A general rule without testing is to use 1 ton of lime per acre and 200lb of 13-13-13 fertilizer per acre.

If you plan on tilling/discing, I would suggest cutting the area in the early spring(green up) so that the weeds start to grow. Go back in approx 14 days and spray a herbicide like round-up(or equivalent) to kill the new growth. Wait another 2 weeks for the herbicide to take effect, then you can disc it under. You can add the suggested amount of lime and fertilizer just before discing to incorporate it into the soil. I will say that it can take up to 6 months for lime to become fully effective.

Clover is a good all around choice that is easy to grow and can last for several years if cut at the right time and weed control is practiced.
Curiosity killed the cat, but I was a suspect for a while......
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Postby ironhead » Sat Dec 27, 2008 7:55 am

Spoken like a farm boy. :wink:
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Thanks

Postby JeffKMN » Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:03 am

Thanks for the info and yes I was a farm boy years ago but know I just have some horses for the kids and grandkids.
Jeff
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Postby ironhead » Sun Dec 28, 2008 8:28 am

Another useful tool is fire,,,just as things start to get green. It helps kill off trees and woody vines and brush.
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Postby freechase » Thu Feb 19, 2009 2:42 pm

Only you can prevent a forest fire! :? If doing a plot in the woods I don't recommend a fire as a weed preventative. Unless the ground is damp enough to support a fire with out burning down the neighborhood. Be sure and call your local fire department to let them know your plan, that way they are anticipating your call.... Good luck!
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Postby Bowhunters » Thu Feb 19, 2009 8:21 pm

Freechase makes lots of valid points.

I was raised on a farm and lots of farmers burn off their wheat fields or pastures and one thing you always wanted/needed to do was give a call to your local fire dept a few days before you intend to have a burn.

If its dry your area may issue a 'burn ban alert' where its even illegal to burn trash on a farm let alone a field or wooded area and you definitely don't want to even think about a burn when its dry and its supposed to be high breezes or windy.

Another reason to contact the fire dept would be to see if you need to apply for a legal 'burn permit' for your area or you could get hit by a stiff fine but at the very least it makes sense to contact them to give the closest fire dept time to be in a heightened alert mode if something happens and things start going wrong during your burn.
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