Nocking question on a compound bow- Picture inside.

[silvergts1998]

I am trying to find center on my bow string. (PSE Thunderbolt X) How do you accomplish this when the cams on both ends are different from each other? I know you can use a bow square, but the issue I am thinking is this. You can get your nock and the arrow rest square, but if it's not true center of the string wouldn't it mess with the alignment with the arrow when the bow is drawn? See my illustration. Hopefully I am making sense here.

Thanks!

[Bowhunters]

I assume by this you mean your bow is a 'Solo or Single Cam' and on the other end has a non-cam/round idler wheel.

Both the cam end and the idler wheel end have the same amount of cable going through them at draw and at release so the nock point stays constant.

If you are seeing the arrow at an up or down angle when an arrow is nocked like in your red picture then a loose nock point sliding/moving up or down the bow string is the likely culprit.

When your bow is tuned at a bow shop they use a device called a 'Bow Square' to help determine the arrow nocking point on the string.

[silvergts1998]

This is my bow.

Where would you recommend I measure from what point to what point? So if i measure from a certain point, then I divide the total length in half and that should be my nock point right?

Thanks.

[silvergts1998]

Problem with the bow square is that it squares it with the arrow rest/string and not the center of the string itself. So I could have the rest sitting high and the bow square would square it on the string but the nocking point would be wrong. I think I make sense here.

[Bowhunters]

Yeah just by eyeballing it from your pic it looks like the 'release string' that is tied to the bow string is sitting a little too low but its kinda hard to tell for sure in that pic. If you can tell that its indeed low then its either loose or may be getting frayed and going bad.

A bow square has clips on it for attaching to the bow string, with a bow square clipped to the bow string and the long end riding (just touching)on the arrow rest it should give you a pretty good idea of the area where the little release string should be tied onto the bow string.

Without a bow square you could eyball it with maybe a tape ruler but that would be way too crude to be accurate.

Best to take it to a shop and get it done right, the bow looks like its been through a bow shop before, if its a hand me down or you bought it at a garage sale it needs to be set for your draw length and you may need new arrows if your arms are significantly longer or shorter than the previous owners.

The best way to know if the tuning is close is to shoot arrows with it through paper, bow shops will have a sheets or a big roll of paper on a stand to shoot arrows through and if the arrow is wobbling up and down or side by side will tell you if it needs more tuning so when done the arrow flies straight off the bow.

We aren't going to be able to tune it here on the forum.

[silvergts1998]

Well I got my bow tuned in pretty good at 15, 20, 30 and 40 yards. Thanks for some of the advice bowhunters on tuning it. Split an arrow at 25 yards. A little expensive so I don't think I won't be doing that again.

My arm got a bit tired and my hands too that held the riser. I took some advil and it helped out! Gotta work out those arms I guess.

Here's a video of my first initial shots trying to site it in. (25 yards)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0IVvewxlF6w

[Bowhunters]

Ouch, yeah when you start busting up some arrows it can get add up to some money. Glad it all worked out for you getting it tuned up.

Watched the video, very nice tight groups.

Looks like you are ready to go do some hunting.

[ironhead]

With injuries to my arms and shoulders as well as the cost of the supplies for bowhunting,,i passed my bow to my son. I really enjoyed bowhunting. The more you shoot, the less your arms will hurt. I used to practice for an hour a day, weather permitting.